Skopje

 “This is Europe's new capital of kitsch", says friend's dad, referring to the Guardian article on the topic.  It is our first day in the Balkans Roadtrip vol2 this year in August and we have landed to the beautiful capital of newly named 'North Macedonia', Skopje. 

 My friend’s mother does not want to take us to see this travesty of plastic sculptures and glue on pillars on top of buildings. ”I feel so sick and angry when I come here.” She says.

 And indeed we can see why.

 The centre is full of statues.

 Statues, white buildings, pompous surroundings.

 There is a lot of statues that no one knows what they stand for.

 There are huge ship-like buildings in the river which will never sail anywhere, meant to be hotels and restaurants.

 Some of the statues fit into the Macedonian past, some just don't.

Glitter fashion is everywhere

The whole centre of Skopje was 'renovated' with plastic back in 2014 - the previous government was apparently using this project as a shield for money laundering, which is why the locals are outraged with it and would not like to show it to the tourists.

We first walk around this area at night.

And you must agree - it is made entirely for the looks of it.

There is a statue in the middle of the centre called 'Warrior on a horse'. It is of course Alexander Great of Macedonia's statue. But for political reasons we cannot say that out loud. On the opposite side of the square you can see 'The father of warrior on a horse (below).

...And the mother of 'Warrior on a horse'.

These guys are the Cyrillic brothers who came up with the Cyrillic alphabet. Did I mention that this statue has a double because one was not enough?

The Capital of North Macedonia is regardless a place to visit.

The whole country is a 'one city' country with most people moving to Skopje. (The larger Skopje being Roughly the size of Finnish Capital area around Helsinki - 1Million people)

The picture below shows the sad nature of the 'oldest restaurant in Skopje' which has gotten a 'new white look' in the kitch process of 2014.

I find this city fascinating and of course agree with the locals: The real Skopje is somewhere other than here.

We are invited to Macedonian dinner which my friend's mother has cooked. 

Lots of food on peppers, aubergines, cheese, tomato-paprika paste etc. And Raki of course!

The food is gorgeous and sooo delicious!

Olives are the size of thumbs. Juha says he cannot eat vegetables back home in Finland after this because they are so sad for their taste and freshness back home...

There is a tropical storm from Africa on our first night in the Balkans this summer.

But after it clears, we invited to the Turkish Bazar to eat some kebabs. Our hosts let us know that this is not actually food but a tradition or "kebabchinja" as the locals say.

After the amazing night, we swear that we will not eat anything else on this trip... And the journey to Kosovo, Albania, Greece and Turkey at this point has just begun...

Spoiler: We did eat once or twice after this... Have you been wondering why I came back like the size of an elephant - this is why. But still - I didn't come back a vegan!  ;)

Thank you for hosting us M and T and D! We had such a great time!

/Kesälomareissumme Balkanilla alkoi visiitillä Skopjeen, jossa ystäväpariskuntamme näytti meille kitch-päälystettyä keskustaa, jonka Pohjois-Makedonian edellinen hallitus laitatutti rahanpesutarkoituksissa uusiksi. Ehdottomasti vierailun arvoinen kaupunki: Kiinnostavaa uutta ja vanhaa historiaa ja tietysti huikean hyvää ruokaa!

Albania

 After Kosovo, why not drive past lake Ohrid on Albanian side, we thought - to add one more country to our roadtrip experience.

First thing we noticed when passing the Albanian border - was a man with a donkey on a walk... This was surely going to be a night to remember.

On Macedonian side, the roadside sellers have a spread of fruits out: Grapes, watermelons, peppers. On the Albanian side - there is onions and potatoes. And aquariums with fish... When looking at the landscape, we can see why. The Macedonian hills are covered with beautiful trees, flora and fauna. The Albanian side is much more rough. There is even a man walking by the roadside waving his catch of the day in his hand. I keep on wondering how fast can he sell it before it going off in the beating hot sun.


We spend the night in a roadside ”Kompleksi” which includes Hotel, restaurant and a swimming pool. The Hotel has seen its better days: the bedside tables have only two legs - we keep on wondering what happened to the other ones..? Is there a clan of Albanian tourists stealing bedside table legs..?


The swimming pool’s water does not tempt us to swim. The reception is completely abandoned and the Hotel manager is a large Albanian man sitting in the restaurant with a bowl of keys. He draws over my name in his list, which he has copied from Booking.com where I booked it two hours earlier.

The restaurant is surprisingly full of Albanians and we have to move indoors to get an overworked harrypotter look-a-like waiter to come and talk with us. His English is modest but he gets his message through:
”Let me explain to you some things:
You want meat or fish?
You want fries or salad?
You want half a littre or one littre of wine?”

We fast learn that the Albanians are straightforward and mind their own business. They pay very little attention the the tourists around. And they bring their kids to the restaurant at dinner time at 9pm-11pm just like everywhere in Southern Europe. Finnish kids going to bed at 1900-2000 would be a considered strange. I pay my bill half in Euros and half in Macedonian dinars, that’s all I have and there is no point in taking out LEKs - only 12hours in Albania and we are back off to North Macedonia and Greece.

To be fair, I would need to spend more time in Albania to be able to say anything, but still - it was a cultural experience.


/ Ajelulla Balkanilla päädyimme yöpymään Albanian puolella. Alun perin suunnitelmissa oli ajaa Durresiin, Adrian meren rannalle ja ajella sieltä sitten rantaa pitkin alas. Suunnitelma on huono jos sitä ei voi muuttaa on tämänkin retken motto. Siispä visiittimme Albaniaan jäi lyhykäiseksi. Yövyimme Ohrid-järven länsirannalla hotelliravintolakompleksissa, jossa meininki oli vähintäänkin mielenkiintoinen. Yöpöydistä oli kadonnut puolet jaloista, respa oli mies ravintolassa kulhollisen avaimia kanssa ja dinnerillä vaihtoehdot olivat suoraviivaisen yksinkertaiset:
- Haluatteko lihaa vai kalaa?
- Ranskalaisia vai salaattia?
- Litra vai puoli litraa viiniä?
Tienpientareella myytiin sipuleita, perunaa ja kalaa (akvaarioissa tai siimassa).

Kulttuurikokemus tämäkin:)

Kosovo

Driving around Balkans, part II for me and Juha. Last year our ”adult trip” took us driving around the Balkans: Croatia, Montenegro and Bosnia & Herzegovina. We enjoyed this trip so much that this year we decided to go back. This time to North Macedonia where my dear friend Manja comes from.

While visiting Macedonia, Juha and I looked at each other and said - well - why not drive around a bit. See other places while we are at it. Indeed I have only visited Serbia and Greece of the neighboring countries...

”Pizzerias and Gas stations”, said Manja’s dad when he heard that we planned to drive to Kosovo first: ”That’s what they started to build when the was was over.” And he was not wrong.

Entering Kosovo from Skopje with a rental car is easy. The border is like 15minute drive away from the city centre. The border controllers are not too bothered of us and we fail to get our passports stamped even though both Kosovo and North Macedonia are not European Union countries.

Last night we have had a fabulous Macedonian family dinner where we learned that even though most Macedonians would have liked to have become an EU country - the biggest problem was the regulation not to make your own Rakija at home. No more home made Booze..? Well, obviously we cant have that.

We drive around the mountains on Kosovo’s countryside to visit a small memorial of 45 civilians that were massacred for the sake that they were Albanian.

This started the war here in Shtime 20 years ago. The dead include children and elderly. They all have their faces carved in stone by the memorial side where we are probably the only visitors today. Maybe even this week or month.

The troubles in this area - like in many cases in the world - revolve around religion. In this case, Muslim and Orthodox. You can see Mosques everywhere. Super Markets in the countryside dont sell beer.

We stop at a restaurant and try to communicate with a confused Kosovian waiter.
”Which money do you use..?”
”...?!?”
”dinar..? Credit card..? Euro..?”
”Oooh! EURO!”

Luckily we have some cash. Our Macedonian prepaid internet cards have stopped working in Kosovo, even though we ”activated” the Balkan package and they should have worked... oh well.

It is our plan just to see Kosovo driving on one day and therefore we do not plan to spend the night here. Sometimes it is rather blissful to drive around without social media bothering.

Kosovo seems similar to Bosnia, or indeed Romania or another country at this part of The World. Lunch is two ham omelettes and a chicken salad. 5€ total... Juha is thinking of  moving here for the food-price ratio.

Green corn fields, Blue mountains, red rooftop villages. Beautiful country. There are storks on the field when we drive out of the country. A sign perhaps?


/ Eilen vierailimme Kosovossa. Viime vuoden Balkanin roadtrip-matkan jälkeen emme malttaneet olla tekemättä toista. Lisäksi ystävättäreni on Macedonialainen ja olen jo pitkän aikaa halunnut käydä täällä hänen kotimaassaan, joten päätimme suunnata tämänkin vuoden kesälomareissun Balkanille. Macedoniasta on lyhyen ajomatkan päässä montakin maata, jossa en ole vielä vieraillut: Kosovo ja Albania. Kreikassa ja Serbiassa olen viettänyt aikaa aiemminkin. Niinpä ensimmäisen päivän visiitti suuntautui Kosovoon. Ajoimme Shtimen kylään, jossa 1999-vuoden sota alkoi. Yli neljäkymmentä siviiliä murhattiin - mukaanlukien vanhuksia ja lapsia. Paikka vetää hiljaiseksi. Laakso on täynnä uudelleen rakennettavia punakattoisia omakotitaloja. Jokaisessa kylässä, jonka ohitamme, on myös moskeija. Paikalliset eivät juurikaan puhu englantia, mutta myyvät pitsaa ja bensaa. Makedonialaiset ystävämme olivatkin kertoneet meille eilen, että sodan jälkeen, alkoi Kosovon puolelle syntyä juurikin näitä: Huoltoasemia ja pitserioita. Mitä ihminen muuta tarvitsee paitsi ruokaa ja päästä liikkumaan...? Kosovosta matkamme jatkui Mavrovon kansallispuistoon takaisin Macedonian puolelle.